Comalcalco

The best time to visit Comalcalco is during the dry season, which runs from November to April.

• Temperatures are more manageable (around 24–30°C), with lower humidity and minimal rain.
• Trails and roads to the ruins are more accessible and less muddy.
• You’ll enjoy clearer skies, ideal for photography and exploring the site comfortably.
• Compared to the wet season, you’ll encounter fewer mosquitoes.

Avoid June to October when heavy downpours and high humidity can make visits uncomfortable.

Thanks to an emblem glyph found at the site, it is now known that the original name of the city was Joy Chan, which comes from the Mayan language and means “Sky Surrounded” or “Rolled-up Sky”, a poetic name with deep symbolic value.

The current name – Comalcalco – comes from the Nahuatl-speaking tribes who arrived in the region after the city had already been abandoned. When they saw the brick buildings, they lacked a word for “brick” and used what they knew.

Seeing the reddish bricks reminded them of comales, flat griddles made from clay. So, combining comalli (comal), calli (house), and co (place), they called the place Comalli-Calli-Co, or “place of the house of comales” in Nahuatl.

That’s why this great Maya city is now known by a Nahuatl name.

Comalcalco is a pre-Hispanic Maya city that rose to prominence between 800 BCE and 900 CE. It reached its peak in the transition from the Preclassic to the Classic period, developing alongside other great cities like Palenque and Yaxchilán.

The earliest traces of settlement come from coastal fishing and farming communities during the Preclassic period. These early inhabitants built with earth, palm leaves, and wood, adapting ingeniously to the absence of stone in the region.

During the Late Preclassic, around 600 BCE, they began constructing larger earth structures coated with stucco. By then, Comalcalco had become a well-organized and thriving Maya population center.

As the Classic period began, from 250 CE onward, the people of Comalcalco introduced fired brick construction. Lacking stone, they fired clay bricks and used lime mortar made from local oyster shells, mainly from the Laguna de Mecoacán.

This innovation allowed them to build vaulted temples and cresting roof combs typical of Maya ceremonial architecture. These brick buildings were then covered in colorful stucco painted red, blue, green, yellow, and black.

Between 550 and 900 CE, the city—then known as Joy Chan—became the most important Maya center in the northwestern region. Its strategic location near the Mazapa-Mezcalapa River boosted its role in regional trade.

Comalcalco’s proximity to the Gulf Coast and inland rivers gave it access to trade networks connecting the Yucatán Peninsula, the Usumacinta basin, central Mexico, and the northern Gulf shores.

This prime location also brought conflict. Monument VI, now at the Carlos Pellicer Museum, records wars led by Balam A Jaus, ruler of Tortuguero, who was allied with Palenque, possibly through blood ties.

In 649 CE, Balam A Jaus captured the sacred lord of Joy Chan, Och Ballam, during a violent campaign. From that point on, Comalcalco fell under Tortuguero’s political control and influence.

After its conquest, Comalcalco began paying tribute to Tortuguero. Balam A Jaus appointed his son as the new governor of the city, marking a shift in its political landscape during the mid-7th century.

Like many Maya cities, Comalcalco was abandoned around 900 CE during the mysterious Classic Maya collapse. The reasons remain debated: climate shifts, crop failures, rebellion, disease, or breakdowns in trade routes may have all played a part.

Despite its decline, Comalcalco remains one of the most intriguing Maya sites. Its brick architecture, vibrant history, and unique geographic position continue to fascinate archaeologists and travelers alike.

The French explorer Désiré Charnay visited this place in September 1880. He published several articles in the North American Review between 1880 and 1882, and later in his book Les anciennes villes du Nouveau Monde in 1885.

Charnay produced a map of what he called the “Main Mound,” now known as the Acropolis. On this map, he identified the Palace, Temples 4 and 5—referring to them as “towers similar to those of Palenque”—as well as two other mounds.

Since then, Comalcalco has been visited by many travelers, including Frans Blom and Oliver La Farge in 1925. Although some excavations took place in 1892, it wasn’t until 1956 that formal research began, led by Mexican and American specialists.

Pedro Romero Torres (1892)

Pedro Romero carried out the first excavations after the site was publicized by Désiré Charnay. Romero’s work focused on the base of the Great Acropolis. These archaeological efforts were significant, revealing two types of construction systems in the monumental architecture.

The older structures were made with compacted earth platforms covered with thick layers of mortar (made from burnt oyster shell lime). On top of these, temples and residential structures were built using brick masonry—a later construction system.

Unfortunately, the images that illustrated Captain Romero’s work were lost.

Expedition of Frans Blom and Oliver La Farge (1925)

In 1925, archaeologist Frans Blom and ethnologist Oliver La Farge arrived in Comalcalco. They produced the first map of the central area, including the North Plaza, and took numerous unprecedented photographs and lithographs of the buildings in the Great Acropolis.

These researchers also discovered a funerary crypt known as the “Tomb of the Nine Lords of the Night”. These stucco-modeled figures included glyphic cartouches that referenced the names of individuals who formed part of the retinue of the buried Kujjul Ajaw or “Divine Lord.”

Their findings were published in the 1926 book Tribes and Temples.

Work of Gordon Ekholm and Edwin Litman (1956–1957)

In 1956, researchers from the American Museum of Natural History in New York began investigating the site. They excavated the south side of Temple VII and uncovered the main façade of a stepped structure decorated with stucco masks and figures.

Work of Román Piña Chan (1960)

Dr. Román Piña Chan conducted archaeological excavations on the south façade of Temple VI.

During this research, he recovered architectural sculptures, including a representation of the god Kinich Ajaw and the face of a bearded figure wearing a headband adorned with cotton spheres—now exhibited in the National Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City.

Piña Chan sealed the tomb, which had remained exposed since its discovery in 1925.

Work of George F. Andrews (1966)

Until the mid-20th century, Comalcalco was mainly known for its unique brick masonry construction and its three funerary buildings. The full extent of the site, however, remained uncertain.

Thanks to George F. Andrews and his team from the University of Oregon, the first topographic map of the settlement was produced in 1966. This revealed that the main area of the site covered 72 hectares.

Based on this work, the first dedicated book on the Comalcalco archaeological site was published. It included over a dozen topographic plans, drawings, photographs, and a compelling text highlighting the site’s significance.

Work of Ponciano Salazar Ortegón (1972–1982)

Ponciano Salazar focused his efforts for over ten years on the intensive excavation and conservation of four temples in the North Plaza and three palace structures in the Great Acropolis. During this period, most of the engraved brick collection was assembled.

Work of Francisco Cuevas and Mario Pérez (1991)

In 1991, archaeologists Francisco Cuevas and Mario Pérez-Campa began excavations and clearance of Temple IIIA in the North Plaza.

Their work allowed the consolidation of the building’s oldest part, which was made of earth cores and stucco coatings. During this process, they discovered and excavated fourteen human burials, seven of which were placed inside large funerary urns made of clay.

The majority of Maya cities were built using limestone or volcanic rock. Comalcalco was constructed almost entirely with fired clay bricks and stucco made from oyster shells due to the region’s lack of stone, and showcases the innovation of its ancient builders.

Its urban core is divided into three main areas:

• The North Plaza
• The Great Acropolis
• The East Acropolis

Each area features platforms, temples, courtyards, and elite residences. The entire site is equipped with advanced drainage systems made from terracotta tubes, highlighting the inhabitants’ engineering knowledge.

Comalcalco also stands out for its use of decorative brickwork. Thousands of fired bricks were engraved, stamped, or painted with glyphs, symbols, animals, and human figures. This form of artistic expression adds another layer of cultural richness to the site.

Beyond its unique materials and layout, Comalcalco is rich in spiritual and political significance.

Tombs, altars, and ceremonial buildings suggest strong religious traditions, while large palace structures imply an organized political system. The combination of innovation, artistry, and sacred meaning makes Comalcalco one of the most remarkable Maya sites.

Key structures of Comalcalco:

• Temple I
• Temple IV
• Palace (The Palace Complex)
• Sunken Patio
• Temple of the Nine Lords of the Night
• Temple VI (Temple of the Mask)
• Temple VII (Temple of the Sitting Figures)
• Popol Naah
• East Acropolis

Temple I

Temple I dominates the western edge of the North Plaza.

This impressive stepped pyramid stands around 20 meters tall and showcases two construction phases: an early earthen core and a later, 12-level brick overlay. A central 34-step stairway rises to the summit, where a chamber likely served ritual functions.

A basalt skull sculpture was found here, possibly linked to funerary practices.

Temple IV

Temple IV is one of the most notable funerary temples at Comalcalco.

Built atop a tall brick platform, it houses a vaulted crypt and dual chambers. Both exterior and interior walls were covered in modeled stucco. Archaeologists discovered stuccoed human figures here, including a seated ruler with a headdress, suggesting a ceremonial burial.

The Palace

This monumental structure, central to the Great Acropolis, is around 80 m long and 9 m high. It includes two parallel galleries, each with rooms and altars. The architecture includes vaulted ceilings, painted interiors, and evidence of wood lintels and decorative elements.

The Palace likely served administrative, political, or ceremonial roles for elite rulers.

Sunken Patio

A sunken courtyard is surrounded by small temples and elite residences. It features a well-preserved drainage system made of clay tubes and a ritual water vessel beneath its floor. This space likely served both residential and ritual purposes for the city’s ruling elite.

Temple of the Nine Lords of the Night

This tomb is one of the most symbolic finds at Comalcalco.

Inside the chamber, nine stucco figures representing mythological deities known as the Lords of the Night were found on the walls. It is believed to be the tomb of an elite figure and offers strong evidence of the city’s spiritual beliefs and cosmology.

Temple VI (Temple of the Mask)

This temple includes a prominent mask representing a solar deity, modeled on the façade of its earlier platform. The later phase added a brick superstructure with twin vaulted chambers. Its layout and solar imagery suggest a connection to sun worship and celestial cycles.

Temple VII (Temple of the Sitting Figures)

Located west of Temple VI, this larger structure displays stuccoed figures sitting cross-legged on the temple’s north façade. The temple was built in two phases and is notable for its stairways, elevated terraces, and symbolic art. The seated figures may represent ancestors or deities.

Popol Naah

Popol Naah, or “Council House,” was likely used for governance or rituals.

It features a striking basalt-framed stucco scene showing three seated figures and mat symbols, associated with rulership and community assembly. Animal bones and musical instruments found nearby suggest ceremonial music and offerings were part of its use.

East Acropolis

This smaller Acropolis mirrors the Great Acropolis in layout but lacks masonry structures.

Built entirely of packed earth, it features its temples and platforms aligned with the cardinal directions. It may have served as a secondary ceremonial complex or housing for elite figures associated with religious functions.

Urban infrastructure and drainage system

Beneath monumental structures like the Great Acropolis, the Maya built an extensive underground drainage network. This deep drainage system was designed to channel rainwater and waste away from the city—an impressive feat of pre-Hispanic engineering.

The ancient Maya cemetery

In 2011, archaeologists from INAH uncovered what may be the first known Maya cemetery in Comalcalco. A total of 116 burials—dating back over a thousand years—were found in three earthen mounds covering 220 square meters on the city’s outskirts.

Sixty-six bodies were placed in clay funerary urns ranging from 35 to 80 cm in size. The remaining 50 were buried around these urns, suggesting that the individuals inside the urns likely belonged to the elite, while those outside may have been their companions.

Some skeletons showed cranial deformation and jade inlays in their teeth—clear markers of high social status.

Artifacts found at the site included ceramic whistles and rattles depicting richly dressed men, women, and animals; obsidian and flint tools; metate fragments; over 70,000 ceramic shards; and even a complete dog skeleton, likely included to guide the dead into the underworld.

The Comalcalco Site Museum was originally inaugurated in June 1984 and reinaugurated on October 8, 1994. The museum was later remodeled in 2011 to provide a more modern exhibition space.

The museum features a permanent hall with 16 thematic display cases showcasing over 400 archaeological pieces. These artifacts—made of clay, stone, shell, bone, and metal—represent everyday life, ritual practices, and artistic expression in ancient Comalcalco.

One of the most significant aspects of the museum is its collection of engraved bricks, a distinctive feature of Comalcalco architecture. These decorated bricks include human figures, glyphs, and religious motifs.

In 2011, a second exhibition hall was added, focusing on the latest archaeological discoveries made at the site. Among the most important exhibits is the longest known Maya epigraphic text ever found in Tabasco, written in glyphs during the 8th century on the tip of a stingray spine.

This spine was part of the burial offerings of Aj Pakal Tahn, a priest known as the “Lord of Fire” (yajaw k’ahk’). The tiny surface of the spine contains part of a narrative consisting of 260 glyphs, describing 14 years of the priest’s life.

This remarkable offering was discovered in 1998, in the North Plaza, along with 24 other inscribed spines and various ceremonial objects. The museum also displays funerary urns, offerings, ritual items, and even a burial within one of the urns.

The archaeological zone is located just 2 km from the city of Comalcalco.

If you’re coming from Villahermosa, the distance is about 60 km.

Take Federal Highway 180 toward Cárdenas, then follow the four-lane highway La Isla–Dos Bocas, continuing in the direction of Comalcalco. About 2 km after passing through the city, take the right turn toward the archaeological site.

The site is open every day of the year from 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.

Facilities include parking, restrooms, wheelchair ramps, and luggage storage.

Open hours and entrance fee

• The site is open daily from 8:00 to 16:00.
• Entry fees may apply – check locally or online for updated pricing.

What to bring and what to wear

• Wear comfortable clothing and walking shoes, as you’ll be exploring ruins and uneven terrain.
• A hat, sunscreen, and water are recommended due to the hot and humid climate.
• Insect repellent can also be useful.