Hidden in the lush jungles of southern Quintana Roo, Kohunlich is a remarkable ancient Maya city known for its serene setting and iconic Temple of the Masks. Unlike the crowded ruins of the north, Kohunlich offers a tranquil, immersive journey into Maya history.

The site lies near the Río Bec region, blending elements of Petén and Río Bec architecture. Surrounded by thick rainforest, Kohunlich was once a major settlement and trade hub, strategically positioned along important Maya routes that connected the Caribbean coast to the inland cities.

Kohunlich sits at about 60 km west of Chetumal and is easily reached by car. The area’s tropical environment supports howler monkeys, toucans, and other wildlife – visitors often hear jungle sounds echoing through the ancient structures.

This peaceful site is shaded by tall trees, making exploration comfortable even in the midday heat. The environment not only adds to its charm but also protects the ruins from erosion, preserving carved masks and temple facades for future generations.

Kohunlich’s original Maya name remains a mystery. The name we use today isn’t even Maya – it evolved from the English “Cohune Ridge,” a reference to the surrounding hills dotted with corozo palms (Attalea cohune), common in the Petén region.

The term “Kohunlich” is a Spanish phonetic version of the English “Cohune Ridge”. It was introduced by Mexican archaeologist Víctor Segovia, who led the first formal explorations of the site and chose a name that reflected its distinctive landscape.

Interestingly, when American archaeologist Raymond Merwin visited the site in 1912, it was called Clarksville – named after a nearby logging camp just 3 km from the ruins. At that time, the jungle had reclaimed much of the city.

Kohunlich was first settled between 500–300 BCE, during the Preclassic period. However, its most important temples and plazas were built in the Classic era, especially between 250–600 CE, when the city reached its architectural and political peak.

Strategically located, Kohunlich likely served as a key trade link between cities of the Yucatán Peninsula and regions of northern Central America, acting as both a crossroads and a cultural bridge within the Maya world.

The city experienced two major collapses. The first, during the Classic period, was followed by a recovery and rebuilding phase. But a second collapse around 1100 CE led to its final abandonment as Maya power shifted elsewhere.

The site was rediscovered in 1912 by American archaeologist Raymond Merwin, who explored the jungle near the Río Hondo. At that time, the ruins were largely hidden by thick vegetation and forgotten by history.

Kohunlich spans around 8,5 hectares, surrounded by dense tropical forest. The city features over 200 structures—many still unexcavated—along with advanced water systems, including canals and cisterns, showing its past importance and urban planning.

The site showcases a unique architectural style known as Pixa’an, with flat walls, decorative niches, rounded jambs, and embedded columns. This style is best seen in the Pixa’an complex, built during the Early Classic period.

The Temple of the Masks (A-1) is Kohunlich’s most famous structure. Built in the Early Classic era, it features massive stucco masks—still showing traces of red paint—reflecting the influence of the Petén style in its design.

The Ya’axná Plaza is the oldest part of Kohunlich. This ceremonial complex includes nine buildings, with three large pyramid platforms surrounding a civic plaza. Structure E-1 is the site’s oldest, dating back to the Preclassic period.

Kohunlich is located about 60 km west of Chetumal, the capital of Quintana Roo. It’s best reached by car via Federal Highway 186. The closest village is Palenque (not the Chiapas one!), and Bacalar is about 90 minutes away by road.

There’s no public transport directly to the ruins. The most reliable option is renting a car from Chetumal or Bacalar. Some local tour operators offer day trips that include transportation and a guide.

The road to the site is paved and well-marked, but you’ll still want to start early, as the area gets hot and isolated. Bring water and fuel. Cell signal can be spotty near the ruins, so offline maps are a smart idea.

Once inside the site, you’ll explore on foot. The main paths are cleared, but the terrain can be uneven and shaded by jungle canopy. Comfortable walking shoes, sunscreen, and insect repellent are essential.

Opening hours:

  • Kohunlich is open daily from 8:00 to 17:00, including holidays.
  • The last entry is usually around 16:30.

Entrance fee:

  • The entrance fee is approximately 95 MXN per person (subject to change).
  • There may be an extra charge for using video cameras.

What to wear:

  • Wear light, breathable clothing – the jungle heat and humidity can be intense.
  • Bring comfortable walking shoes, a hat, and sunglasses.
  • The site is mostly shaded, but some areas are fully exposed to the sun.
  • Don’t forget insect repellent and sunscreen.
  • Carry a refillable water bottle and snacks.