Tepoztlán

Tepoztlán enjoys a mild climate that shifts between temperate and subtropical, especially in the surrounding Sierra, where El Tepozteco National Park is located. Summers are warm and humid, while winters are dry and pleasantly cool.

The rainy season typically begins in June and lasts until early October, bringing lush green landscapes and frequent afternoon showers. Annual rainfall averages around 1,000 mm in the valley and can reach 1,200 mm in the nearby mountains.

Best time to visit Tepoztlán

The best months to visit Tepoztlán are November to May, when the weather is dry, skies are clear, and hiking conditions are ideal. If you enjoy dramatic greenery and don’t mind occasional rain, the summer months offer a more tropical feel to the landscape.

The name Tepoztlán derives from the Nahuatl words “tepoztli” (meaning copper, metal, or axe) and “-tlan” (a suffix meaning “place of” or “place of abundance”). So, Tepoztlán can be translated as “place of copper,” “place of the metal,” or “place of axes.”

The most widely accepted meanings are linked to metallurgy or tools made of copper or metal. This etymology appears in sources such as the Gran Diccionario Náhuatl and reflects the region’s pre-Hispanic associations with ritual tools, metalwork, and symbolism.

According to local legend, a young maiden bathed in the Axitla River despite warnings of strange “winds” in the ravines. A month later, she was found to be pregnant. Ashamed, she told her parents, and when the baby was born, her grandfather tried to get rid of him.

The baby survived many dangers—the wind gently saved him from falling rocks, maguey plants gave him sweet sap to drink, and giant ants protected him. An elderly couple from nearby found and raised the child, who became known as Tepoztécatl, the future patron of Tepoztlán.

Tepoztécatl later volunteered to face a giant serpent demanding sacrifices. Though swallowed by the beast, he used sharp obsidian stones to tear it apart from inside and escape. On his way back, he vanished mysteriously after causing a storm, and eventually settled atop the nearby mountain.

He was honored as the lord of Tepoztlán and high priest of the god Ometochtli, but then disappeared for good. Some say he lives forever near the pyramid on the mountain, watching over the town. The story celebrates cleverness, nature, and the spirit of the winds that shape the land.

According to another version…

…Tepoztón, a humble man born to a washerwoman, converted to Catholicism and helped place the cathedral’s great bell with the wind’s aid. He was given three boxes to keep closed, but opening them released birds symbolizing the town’s wealth and talents that may one day leave.

Some say Tepoztécatl was baptized on September 8, 1532, by a young missionary after the pagan idol was toppled. Nearby nobles accused him of betraying old gods, but his wisdom convinced them to accept the new faith, marking a turning point for Tepoztlán.

The legend highlights the element of air – symbolizing intellect and cleverness – qualities that helped Tepoztécatl overcome danger. Many believe he was the son of Quetzalcóatl, the wind god, who protected him and watches over the town to this day from the mountaintop.

Tepoztlán is steeped in legend and mystery. According to ancient myth, it is the birthplace of Quetzalcoatl, the feathered serpent god revered throughout Mesoamerica. The myth says he was born here over 1,200 years ago, giving the town a sacred aura that still lingers today.

Archaeological evidence shows that the region has been inhabited for millennia. Pottery and ceramic artifacts found in the area date as far back as 1500 BCE, though the identity of the earliest settlers remains uncertain.

By the 10th century CE, the Toltecs had established dominance in the region.

Tepoztlán is believed to be the birthplace of Ce Acatl Topiltzin, a legendary Toltec ruler who later became associated with the deity Quetzalcoatl. Some historians even suggest that the god’s story may be rooted in this real historical figure.

Resistance and the Spanish conquest

During the Spanish conquest, Tepoztlán resisted colonization fiercely.

Hernán Cortés ordered the town to be razed after its leaders refused to submit. The region’s defenders—many from noble Nahua lineages—fortified themselves in the surrounding cliffs and mountains, but were eventually overwhelmed by Spanish artillery.

In Durán’s Historia de las Indias de Nueva España, he describes how the native warriors retreated into the mountains when faced with Spanish firepower. After their defeat, Tepoztlán was incorporated into the Marquesado del Valle de Oaxaca, the vast lands granted to Cortés.

Tepoztlán is a relatively small town and very walkable on foot. Its compact historic center, cobblestone streets, and main attractions like the Exconvento, the market, and the plaza are all within easy walking distance – usually just a few minutes apart.

Don’t miss the bustling weekend market in the main square, where locals gather to sell colorful handmade crafts, delicious traditional foods, fresh produce, and unique souvenirs. It’s the perfect place to experience the vibrant local culture and pick up authentic gifts.

Be sure to visit the Museo Carlos Pellicer, a small but fascinating museum located next to the Exconvento. It offers a rich glimpse into the area’s ancient cultures through its collection of pre-Hispanic artifacts, helping you understand Tepoztlán’s deep historical roots.

For a peaceful escape, head up to the Chapel of San Miguel, a charming chapel perched on a hill just north of town. It provides tranquil views of the valley below and a quiet alternative to the busier tourist spots—perfect for some reflection or a leisurely stroll.

Exconvento de la Natividad

One of Tepoztlán’s main landmarks is the Exconvento de la Natividad, an impressive 16th-century Dominican convent. Built between 1530 and 1540 using carved stone, lime mortar, and plant-based binders, the structure has stood the test of time and was restored in 1993.

In 1994, the convent was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its historical and architectural value. Many of the original interior murals are still visible today, adding to the site’s charm and authenticity.

The temple’s façade is dedicated to the Virgin of the Rosary, depicted alongside saints, angels, cherubs, and Dominican symbols. The upper part of the former convent now houses a museum that explores the region’s rich cultural and historical heritage.

El Tepozteco pyramid

Towering above the town is the iconic Tepozteco Pyramid, built around 1150 CE by the Xochimilca-Tepoztécatl people. The pyramid is dedicated to Ometochtli-Tepoztécatl, a deity associated with pulque, wind, and agricultural fertility.

The pyramid stands about 10 meters tall and sits atop a steep mountain trail that offers panoramic views of the valley. Rediscovered and cleared of vegetation in 1895 by engineer Francisco Rodríguez and residents, it has since become a sacred symbol and tourist magnet.

The site consists of a two-level pyramid with a grand staircase flanked by alfardas (sidewalls), topped by a structure containing two interior chambers. In front of the pyramid, a smaller square platform with four decorated staircases complements the layout.

Each year, thousands climb to the summit, especially during the celebration of the “Reto al Tepozteco”, a theatrical reenactment of the evangelization of Tepoztlán’s last ruler—a unique blend of cultural memory and festive ritual.

Itacates are cooked on a griddle until they develop a crispy, golden crust that’s simply irresistible. The best part is you can choose from many fillings like shredded chicken tinga, beef, squash blossoms, cheese, or meat, making them perfect for every taste.

Tlacoyos are thick corn tortillas stuffed with beans or fava beans, cooked on a griddle until soft and flavorful. They’re typically served with fresh cactus paddles (nopales), spicy salsa, and cheese, a beloved traditional dish popular throughout Tepoztlán and Morelos.

Red mole with turkey is made from a rich blend of milato, ancho, and guajillo chilies, creating a deep, slightly spicy flavor. Served with tender turkey meat, this dish includes several secret ingredients that give it its unique and special taste.

Originating from the state of Morelos, tacos acorazados feature various fillings – often chile relleno – served with rice and wrapped in double tortillas. The double-layered tortilla gives a crispy exterior while keeping the inside juicy, making it a delicious treat for any palate.

El Reto al Tepozteco

This traditional festival commemorates the ceremony of Tepozteco’s blessing and baptism, symbolizing the transition from polytheistic beliefs to Catholicism. Performed in Nahuatl with Spanish translation, the play depicts the allies of Lord Cuauhnáhuac challenging the Tepozteco.

Dating back to around 1850, the festival features dances representing the lords of Yautepec, Oaxtepec, Tlayacapan, and Tepoztlán, culminating in a procession to the civic plaza. The celebrations also honor Our Lady of the Nativity and span from late August until September 16.

The Carnival of Tepoztlán

Tepoztlán’s vibrant carnival dates back to 1862 and is famous for its colorful “Chinelo” dancers—masked performers who bring energy and tradition to the streets. The festivities have grown over time to become one of the town’s most beloved events.

The Carnival of Tepoztlán officially begins each year with the Brinco de Los Tiznados dance, performed on January 21. Dancers paint their faces black to honor Saint Sebastian’s legendary escape from Roman persecution by disguising himself.

This unique tradition sets the tone for the joyful celebrations that follow.

From Mexico City:

Tepoztlán is just a short trip from Mexico City. Buses depart frequently – about every 5 minutes – from Mexico City’s Terminal de Autobuses del Sur. The journey takes 1 hour, offering a comfortable and scenic ride straight to Tepoztlán’s town center.

From Cuernavaca:

• Direct buses to Tepoztlán run regularly from Cuernavaca’s main bus terminal.
• The journey takes 45 minutes and offers scenic views of the surrounding mountains.

From Puebla:

• Take a bus or drive via the highways to Cuernavaca.
• Then transfer to a bus to Tepoztlán.
• The total travel time is approximately 3 to 4 hours.